American Sportworks Trail Wagon 200 - NO SPARK (2024)

Can anyone confirm if the CDI on my 2011 American Sportworks Trail Wagon 200 (TW200) is AC or DC? I am not getting a spark, and I’ve replaced, the spark plug, the stator, the starting coil, the staring relay, the voltage regulator and the CDI. I have read the "GY6 150cc Ignition Troubleshooting Guide: No Spark?" but I don't have the kill switches, and cant really tell if the same trouble shooting steps apply to my buggy since it seems to be DC... my CDI did not have the 4 & 5 wires, so I assume it is DC. In which case, is there a troubleshooting method specific to DC CDI's?

For background, I received the buggy from an in-law who was about to junk it, it hadn't ran in years. The engine turns over just fine, and fuel is getting to the cylinder, and the battery has 13v.

Please help...

I spent a lot of time with my 2010 Yardsport 200 and became pretty familiar with it.
It is a DC CDI.
It had a kill switch on the electrical box above the engine, check that.

ASW/ALM made changes throughout the series so your machine is specific and I found that ASW wasn't always up to date with their documentation.

Did you buy the new parts from ALM or did you do the guess your best on the internet?

I had trouble with the ignition switch filling up with water. ALM was making the switch harness upside down with the drip loop going up instead of down, the electrical contact area was all corroded, check that

Snaker said:

I spent a lot of time with my 2010 Yardsport 200 and became pretty familiar with it.
It is a DC CDI.
It had a kill switch on the electrical box above the engine, check that.

ASW/ALM made changes throughout the series so your machine is specific and I found that ASW wasn't always up to date with their documentation.

Did you buy the new parts from ALM or did you do the guess your best on the internet?

I had trouble with the ignition switch filling up with water. ALM was making the switch harness upside down with the drip loop going up instead of down, the electrical contact area was all corroded, check that

Click to expand...

Where is this switch above the engine? I do not see it.

Thinking if the headlights illuminate with the engine off it's a DC CDI, if the headlights only illuminate with the engine running it's an AC CDI.

or

mcraighead11 said:

Where is this switch above the engine? I do not see it.

Click to expand...

If you have one it should be obvious on the electric box above the engine.
Mine is a red button switch with a "kill" label next to it

Snaker said:

I spent a lot of time with my 2010 Yardsport 200 and became pretty familiar with it.
It is a DC CDI.
It had a kill switch on the electrical box above the engine, check that.

ASW/ALM made changes throughout the series so your machine is specific and I found that ASW wasn't always up to date with their documentation.

Did you buy the new parts from ALM or did you do the guess your best on the internet?

I had trouble with the ignition switch filling up with water. ALM was making the switch harness upside down with the drip loop going up instead of down, the electrical contact area was all corroded, check that

Click to expand...

I am having a problem with my yard sport not getting any spark I’ve ran checks there are little to no YouTube fixes or anything about these I can not get it to spark I’ve spent 20 plus hours I have new stator cudi voltage regulator coils everything can not get it to spark any advice would be great

Two things come to mind
1. The ignition switch (mentioned earlier)
It can be tricky to test with a meter.
On mine the back of the switch was corroded from water
The ignition circuit was ok in the on position but bad in the start position

2. The main fuse is a glass cartridge located in the electric box above the engine, a real rats nest.
I had trouble with mine
It was in the crappyist fuse holder I've ever seen.
The holder was just a plastic cover
The wires had terminal clamps that tightly clamped the end caps
After a while, probably from vibration, the fuse clamps broke the fuse caps loose from the glue
The fuse didn't blow, it just had a bad connection with the fuse element inside
Again it might pass a meter test
I replaced the fuse holder with a auto style blade fuse holder (marine grade)
I also relocated the holder outside of the electric box so it was accessible during a ride (carry spares)